The Ha Giang Loop is that part of a Vietnam trip that almost everyone eagerly anticipates — and for good reason. But unlike other destinations you might skip, here it’s simple: if you have the time and energy, go. Skipping the Loop would mean missing out on one of the most intense, visceral, and cinematic experiences in the country.
Basically, it’s a motorbike circuit through the northern mountains, right on the border with China (yes, really right on the border). The road winds through deep valleys, limestone cliffs, rice fields, and small villages. Along the way, you’ll stop at restaurants, homestays, and little tourist spots — some still authentic, others already quite geared toward tourism.
One important note: not everything is idyllic. It’s common to see children dressed in traditional clothes posing for photos in exchange for money. While it’s touching to see them, it’s always good to reflect on the impact of tourism in the region and act responsibly.
If you’re planning to do the Ha Giang Loop in Vietnam, you’ve probably noticed there are several companies offering similar tours. Here’s a tip that really makes a difference: most operators communicate with each other, so the routes are practically the same. What really changes is the group’s vibe, the overall atmosphere of the trip, and the type of accommodation. So, choosing the right company for the Ha Giang Loop isn’t just about price—it’s about the vibe. Here are some of the most popular options among backpackers:
Mama’s Homestay: where I stayed and booked the tour. The vibe is sociable but not over the top. It’s perfect for those who want to meet people without it turning into a 24-hour party trip. Everything was very well organized, food was plentiful, and the drivers were super careful.
Buffalo Tour: a bit more expensive, with smaller groups and a focus on comfort. Ideal if you want a more personalized experience.
Jasmine Hostel: a choice with a younger, party vibe. If you’re looking for a livelier trip, this might be your style.
Doing the Ha Giang Loop is one of the most memorable experiences on a trip to Vietnam and if you have the time, the 4-day, 3-night route is the most complete. That’s what I chose, and I was lucky enough to spend my birthday in the middle of the mountains. There was cake, music, and a night I’ll never forget.
One of the first decisions you need to make before starting the Ha Giang Loop is: how do you want to do the trip? There are basically three options — and the price and type of experience vary a lot between them:
1 – Easy Rider (local driver)
This is the most common option for travelers who don’t have much motorcycle experience (like me!) or just want to enjoy the scenery without worrying about driving. The Easy Rider is an experienced local driver who will take you as a passenger and share stories about the place along the way.
More expensive, but safer and more comfortable, especially if it’s your first time driving on mountain roads.
2 – Behind your friend (riding as passenger with a friend)
Some people travel in pairs and one feels confident to drive while the other rides as a passenger. This helps save some money, but it’s essential that the person driving really feels comfortable with sharp curves and constantly winding roads.
3 – Driving by yourself
If you have motorcycle experience and feel confident, this is the freest — and usually cheapest — option. Most companies offer a brief training before starting the tour, but it’s important to be realistic: the terrain is not easy.
When I did the Loop, we faced cold weather and rain. We had two accidents in the group and even saw a local injured by the roadside. This means the route requires attention, preparation, and respect for the road.
The odds are in favor of those who do it responsibly. If you feel you have control and confidence in driving, it should be an crazy experience.
The team’s support was great throughout the four days of the Loop, but it’s important to say: I felt quite cold at night. The first accommodation was by far the warmest on the other nights, I ended up sleeping even with the same jacket I wore during the day riding the motorbike. On the third night, for example, the lodging was in a shared room with several mattresses on the floor, side by side. The shower was also cold. It was definitely the coldest night of the entire trip and one of the hardest to sleep through. The photo below shows exactly what the space looked like.
On the other hand, the food was always good and plentiful. All meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), as well as transportation and accommodation, were included in the package price – which made the experience very convenient, despite these hardships.
Tip: Before booking the Ha Giang Loop tour, check the weather forecast. The climate in the mountainous northern region of Vietnam can change quickly and cold, rain, and fog are more common than most people expect. Even if you leave your main backpack at Mama’s hostel, it’s essential to pack a smaller bag with you for the trip. Bring extra clothes, warm layers, and, if possible, a good raincoat. This can make all the difference between a struggle and a great story to tell.
Extra tip: Bring cash. You won’t find places to withdraw money along the route.
On the very first day, right after breakfast at the hostel and setting off on the Ha Giang Loop, we stopped at a village that seemed like some kind of welcome party. No one really explained what it was. There was loud music, people drinking, food being served, and a lot happening all at once. Nothing made much sense, but everyone got into the vibe. It was chaotic but fun — as you can see in the video below.
Departure from Ha Giang after breakfast at Mama’s Homestay
Stop at the Dong Van Karst Plateau viewpoint
Climb up to the famous Heaven Gate, with panoramic mountain views
Short hike to Angel Couple Hill
Lunch in Nam Dam with a local family
Easy walk through the Pine Tree Forest
Arrival in Yen Minh, dinner, and overnight at a homestay
By the way, get ready: every night ends with plenty of food and drinks. There’s always a group dinner and, of course, shots of a strong local drink they call “happy water” — you’ll hear that name many times.
